ON SAHYADRI’S TOP MOST FORT-SALHER.
Whenever winter season arrives I get attracted towards
Nashik region like a magnet. This is Maharashtra’s one of the most pleasant
area I have experienced so far. I always wanted to climb on the top three
highest peaks of Maharashtra namely- Kalsubai (5441ft),Fort Salher (5300ft) and
Fort Salota (4900ft). Luckily my wish was fulfilled very soon. This time it was
Fort Salher-The Highest fort in Maharashtra and Second highest peak after
Kalsubai . I was very excited to visit here. I visited twice to this fort hence
this blog will contain experiences of my both trips combined. Salher is
situated in the interior part of Nashik district. Hence our 1st trip
was planned by using private vehicle, as we were a group of 10. However my 2nd
trip was by Public transport as we were just two. Believe me the less the people
the more we enjoy. Of course I had great fun on my 1st trip but the
2nd was really a special one. Reason is- this fort is a fort of
silence. Since it is situated in a very remote area, it offers so much
untouched by human interference. In my both trips it was winter. Same month and
almost same date. Nashik has such a beautiful winter. Temperature goes down to
5’ degrees also. But still this area manages to attract all nature bugs and
hardcore travel photographers like me. The kind of mountain formation is also
unique and distinctive in this patch. They are huge, they have sharp edged
cliffs, they compete with the sky yet they are blessed with all the beauty of
Mother Nature. During my 1st visit I decided to come here again to
have a self dialogue in the silence of Salher and its Baglaan mountain ranges.
In this area you will not find thick forest and active wildlife as described in
my earlier blog of Raireshwar-http://aniketkasturetravelphotography.blogspot.in/ but it has its own special appearances to
woo nature lovers like us. It has its own surprises. You just need an eye to
figure it out. I bet there will not be any person who is not delighted by this
region. So beautiful it is. So special it is.
Trek to Fort Salher is a 2.5 hrs trek from base village-Waghambe. Me and
my friend had our lunch and headed towards the highest fort of the Maharashtra
at around 1.30 in the afternoon. I was happy to come here again while my friend
was very much excited since it was his first time. Within no time we covered
half of the distance. There is another route to reach this fort from Salher
wadi. But from here we cannot trek to fort salota which is exactly beside fort
salher like a neighbor. Hence we opted out this option. Slowly and gradually
mountains started appearing big and huge as we were getting close enough to
indentify the texture and terrain of this triangular mountain. The thing I love
the most about Salher and Salota fort is its Clear triangle shape like a
pyramid.
Salota has very steep slope and climbing against gravity
is challenging job. But once determined we can do anything. Salota created fear
in my mind as it was not an eye pleasing view to face a huge triangular rocky
mountain from its base. It appeared like a monster to me who could fall on me
at any moment. But soon all my fear vanished when we started our climb. Salota
has big rock cut steps leading to its top. They are really big and our lungs
pumps extra blood while climbing these.
But that’s the specialty of the forts of Maharashtra. They are true to a
saying called- ‘Gain in pain’. Finally we reached Salota’s top and we all were
stunned by the atmosphere and splendid views from here. Right in the front was
the huge fort salher and the deep valley between these two mighty brothers.
This was everyone’s profile picture spot. We descended and reached the ‘V’
point from where we headed for salota. Now it was Salher’s turn. Though we were
tired we were filled with full energy and confidence. It has total seven
entrance doors of which three are witnessed from this route where we were
travelling. The remaining four are seen from salher-wadi route. They are still
strong and intact. Overall fortification on this fort is in good condition.
Seven Entrance doors, Caves, Ganga Sagar lake, Parshuram temple, and many
scattered ruins of houses of the then ministers who ruled here fascinates me.
This fort has to be seen in three parts. 1- East side, 2- West Side and 3- The
temple of parshuram located on a small mountain on the top of the fort. This
fort has great historic importance as it had witnessed one of the fiercest and
blooded battles between the Marathas and the Mughals. It was this battle which
inspired the further Maratha warriors to fight against the mighty Mughals. Marathas
won caturing this fort with tremendous wealth and gold of the Mughals. But the
they won this at the cost of Suryarao Kakde who sacrificed his life on the
battlefield. Truly a brave warrior. I had Goosebumps while seeing this region,
imagining the kind of battle which was fought here where I was standing right
now. I went back all the way in the 16th century. I felt so proud on
my ancestors. Giving them a salute I went further.
As we reached at
the time of Sunset we headed to the west. It was freezing cold and I forgot my
gloves and sweater in the cave where we kept our sack. Now it was really hard
for me to shoot as I was shivering badly and my teeth playing drums. Still I
managed somehow as sunset from this point is unforgettable experience. Pin drop
silence and no interference of human activities is truly a moment to be lived.
I heard the sound of wind so closely for the first time. Since this is the
second highest peak of Maharashtra winds are very rapid and strong. That day
temperature was 9’degree and from this altitude it was really chilly. That’s
how Nashik is. It is Special on its own parameters. I packed my shoot little
earlier this time as I wanted to feel the ambience of the most soothing Sunset
of my lifetime. I sat on ground. I wanted to sense the atmosphere. I was
feeling blessed to witness this sunset. The God was painting and I was
observing his color palette. Nature is the supreme power. It is the ultimate
truth I believe. On my every shoot it proves this to me. I bow down to him
sincerely.
It was 7pm now and it started darkening the sky. We had
to collect wood for cooking dinner. We gathered some and returned in the caves.
Now I was totally chilled and immediately sat beside bonfire. Me and my friend
prepared Rice which was so delicious. Every time I wonder as to how we trekkers
manage to cook well on the forts as compared to home kitchen??? Mom will be
surprised. After having dinner it was
time to roam on the fort in moonlight. Co-incidentally it was full moon night
which was again a great surprise. In Mumbai we hardly see moon hidden behind
sky scrapers, so forget about its light which is replaced by Electric bulbs. Lights,
neon signs etc. So this full moon on salher was truly a divine to watch.
It was 9’ degree temp, the next morning with strong
chilly winds flowing all over this triangular mountain. You can imagine the
cold Nashik has averagely. We were above 5400ft so it was terribly cold here. I
was tensed now as to how I will be able to shoot since my eyes were watering continuously
by strong chilly winds. But Sunrise is my favorite. So I decided to face this
bravely. On my 1st tour I have experienced the sunrise here. Hence
this time I was sure I would be getting something divine. Irrespective of
shivering badly I plotted my tripod to get that perfect angle. I ate few
biscuits as winter makes you hungry badly. Gradually few rays started making
its appearance. Seeing the light conditions I decided to shoot HDR type Sunrise
here. Mother Nature was on my side and she blessed me with some stunning
climatic conditions required for HDR. For non-photographers I would like to
inform that HDR is High Dynamic Range Photography which enhances the situation
adding extra dimensions to it. It adds more drama to the image making it appear
like fantasy world wallpapers. Sahyadri is all about fantasy, so shooting HDR
here is always a reward. This sunrise was truly memorable shoot because of my
battle with strong winds and cold. It was a tough challenge on one side to shoot
with heavy concentration and to face winds on the other. My entire tripod was
experiencing earthquake feel. Nature can be harsh sometimes. But it has its own
ways to woo us. So I never complain and enjoy it rather.
After completing Shoot I returned to the caves. We
prepared maggy. Hunger was attacking us badly. We ate greedily. Now we had to
reach to the top this fort. The temple of Parshuram. This is perhaps the only
point where we can see the upper side of the mountains. It’s head from top
angle. The entire Baglaan mountain range appears so tiny from here. Usually we
look upwards to see a mountain. But here case is opposite. You have to look
down to see the mountains. Imagine the height of this fort and the aura it has.
Amazing! One can never forget the view he sees from here. Grand, Large and out
of the world. I request you all to please visit here once in a lifetime.
Memories you will always cherish.
Regards
-ANIKET KASTURE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY.
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